Bethany Yellowtail, a Native American (Northern Cheyenne and Apsáalooke) fashion designer, has created a collection for her brand, B. Yellowtail, to "authentically represent" her culture. More than the line's native prints and vibrant colors, the 26-year old wants consumers to distinguish between “native designed” and “native inspired.”
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Yellowtail grew up in a community where creativity was encouraged. However, the idea of becoming a fashion designer wasn't. Yellowtail explains to Mashable, "We don't have fashion designers that are well known in the mainstream; we don't breathe fashion design in my community. It was a foreign concept back then."
After persistent encouragement from a high school teacher, however, Yellowtail decided she was going to become a fashion designer. She dove into fashion at FIDM and at her first job at BCBGMaxazria thereafter.
She realized it was time to branch off and start her own collection after seeing "quote unquote 'ethnic' designs that just touched the surface, put a few feathers here or there." Yellowtail says, "Being where I come from and seeing that and knowing these designs mean something...It made me realize I need to do this."
Ray of clouds. Chirping of birds. Gurgling of water. Granting desire. One with water. #Kidchella my first Coachella!!! A photo posted by Khloé (@khloekardashian) on Jun 21, 2014 at 1:33pm PDT
Native American history and tradition have been targets of cultural appropriation across many industries, particularly fashion. At the 2012 Victoria’s Secret fashion show, model Karlie Kloss sported a Native American headdress with a leopard print bra and underwear. The bold look naturally sparked outrage over cultural insensitivity. Two years later, fashion giant Ralph Lauren released a holiday campaign featuring Native Americans in Western clothing, which ignited controversy and cries of ignorance. And each year, music festival goers at concerts like Coachella get slammed for propelling hurtful racial stereotypes.
Events like this are exactly what lit the fire under Yellowtail: "I saw runway shows with headdresses and [asked] why is this happening?"
The new B. Yellowtail collection, "The Mighty Few," is named directly after the home district Yellowtail grew up in. She drew inspiration from stories from her father and older family pictures. Yellowtail says, "I was creating this feeling of where I'm from...Our people are still here. I wanted to express what I feel, the love and beauty of the culture that is still intact."
Yellowtail wants to empower her own culture but also educate those who might not understand what it means to be native. She emphasizes that her collection is for everybody to wear. "I was getting messages from people saying 'I'm not a native person; can I wear your clothes?' Of course you can! I'm not here to be the cultural appropriation police...I want people buying [the clothes] to participate in a story and connect people to the clothes."
The brand wants to become one that is "an honoring of refined beauty, a celebration of culture, and a journey of self-exploration."
Know the difference...it's in the #dna #educateyourself #itsnotjustfashion #Byellowtail #inspirednatives #forwardmomentum #buyindigenous #buynative A photo posted by b.YELLOWTAIL (@byellowtail) on Feb 23, 2015 at 4:26pm PST
One of our opening day best sellers is the "Tazbah Rose" pleated tea skirt! Get yours while it's available they are moving fast www.byellowtail.com/shop A photo posted by b.YELLOWTAIL (@byellowtail) on Apr 11, 2015 at 5:23pm PDT
The intricate beaded designs of world renowned artist @jamieokuma are featured in this chic classic. Her highly sought after beadwork become re-imagined into a timeless and sexy silhouette. pre-order the "Jamie" at www.byellowtail.com A photo posted by b.YELLOWTAIL (@byellowtail) on Apr 17, 2015 at 6:05pm PDT
The description on the scarf depicted below explains, "In Crow culture and various tribes of the plains region, the women's warbonnet dance (or 'Shoshone Warbonnet Dance') is a sacred ceremony to honor the young leaders of our indigenous nations."
While most shoppers won't be able to detect overt Native American influence, that's the best thing about the collection: Yellowtail has used her life experiences and rich cultural history to interpret subtle beauty.
Last #bts till we announce the launch!! @sensmeier & @jadewilloughby for #byellowtail fashion campaign 2015! Beautiful native folks inside and out. These two are visionaries...you'll see #nativefashion #indigenous #continuity #mightyfew A photo posted by b.YELLOWTAIL (@byellowtail) on Mar 30, 2015 at 11:09pm PDT
Yellowtail is one of few Native American designers in the wider fashion world. She believes Native Americans are "the most underrepresented population in the United States." There has always been a problem of diversity in the fashion industry. Beyond Native Americans, in the Council of Fashion Designers of America, only 12 out of 470 are African American, according to the New York Times. Furthermore, there are relatively few African American, Asian and Latina models on the runway and featured on magazine covers. It wasn't until recently that plus-size models began to be recognized by leading agencies, and still there are few.
Yellowtail hopes her line can create more opportunities for native people. She says, "It's about time people see what we are doing here."
For more about B. Yellowtail, check out the video the company made for the collection: