Tucked away in a mountainous area of northern Iraqi Kurdistan, the living quarters of the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) are nearly invisible. Made of sandbags and potato bags, covered in earth-colored tarps, mud and long local grasses, the only giveaway is a long power cord stretching from hut to hut.
Years of war against Turkey have honed the PKK’s ability to conceal its presence.
Yet these days, instead of fighting the Turks, the group is fighting ISIS in Iraq by sneaking its Syrian Kurdish counterparts across the border. Internal divisions among the regions Kurds run rampant, so working together against a common enemy like ISIS is something new for all parties.
Despite political differences, each week small boats cross the Tigris River from Iraqi Kurdistan into Rojava, the Kurdish controlled area of northeastern Syria.
One dark and rainy night, four young Syrian Kurdish men trekked into the camp. As all the fighters stood to shake hands, they recounted their flight from their hometown, Kobane, as they prepared to return to Syria to beat back ISIS. They declared that all they wanted was to not live like refugees any more.
After a dinner of grape leaves, pickles, and thick flatbread and talking politics, the men and women headed to their separate huts for the night.
The next day, a similar routine, followed by a walking mountain patrol.
As the sun set, fighters loaded up for a three-hour drive to the Tigris River, where a small inflatable motorboat awaited them.
When the cars came to a stop, a quick and quiet exchange took place as a handful of men and women spilled out of the boat, while the four men jumped back in. The young fighters slipped into the darkness as they crossed back into their homeland.
Though the likelihood of their survival in the challenging battle against ISIS was low, for just a moment crossing the river, their smiles told more than words could say.
Earlier in the day, they were asked, “Is it worth it, even if you can’t make it [back alive]?”
The young Kurd replied, smiling shyly, “It’s worth everything if I can help bring back my city.”